PORTOFINO, Italy — Shares globally could also be tanking and the style trade could also be coming to phrases with the brand new wave of Trump tariffs, however go away it to Pucci and creative director Camille Miceli to convey a whiff of much-needed respite along with her joyful and colourful designs.
Miceli selected the gorgeous La Cervara, a former abbey on the coastal highway to Portofino, for her spring 2025 present. First erected within the twelfth century, the abbey complicated is a chosen Nationwide Monument of Italy, with a wide ranging view of the Tigullio Gulf, an Italian Renaissance-style backyard that instantly faces the ocean and a wisteria pergola. Miceli timed the present for round 230 friends shortly earlier than sundown, resulting in quite a few Instagrammable moments.
It was the perfect setting for her vogue present, centered on the Marmo, a marble-like print she revived since her first assortment in 2022, and impressed by the reflection of the solar onto the ocean.
This season, the print was revisited in mushy sorbet and powder pink hues, winding round black waves on flowing silk pants and shirts. It was additionally reproduced by way of printed sequins or steel eyelets and thru black and white sea shells, hand-stitched by the Pucci artisans — nonetheless at work backstage, stitching one shell at a time on a blouson high or a fringed skirt. In actual fact, for this assortment Miceli raised the bar on craftsmanship, for a classy lineup that featured extra black than in previous lineups. Pucci’s signature prints have been recurring, however at occasions merely particulars on the hem of a sleeve of somewhat black gown or showing by way of the fringes of a gown or a cape.
The Stella print, an homage to the moon and the celebs, and the Maddalena, or “gocciolone,” paying homage to an expanded drop, outlined by modern and graphic curves, appeared on a caftan or a minidress.
Iride and Orchidee have been additionally signature prints that Miceli revisited. “I modify the colours however by no means the names,” mentioned the designer, who all the time pays tribute to founder Emilio Pucci.
Miceli mentioned she needed her designs to look ethereal, with fluid shapes, and he or she labored with “disproportions,” narrower skirts beneath bigger “balloon” blouses in poplin cotton. “I like the concept of the trompe-l’oeil; they appear to be two items, nevertheless it’s really one gown,” she mentioned.
She additionally created silver bijoux that seemed like tattoos on the pores and skin, reproducing the marble print. “I bear in mind how Karl [Lagerfeld] mentioned that while you put on Pucci, it’s as when you have a tattoo,” remarked Miceli. The laces of the sandals additionally wove across the fashions’ legs, wanting like tattoos.
Miceli staged her first runway present for Pucci in Florence in 2023, following up with Rome final yr. Earlier than that, she opted for multiday life-style “experiences” in such jet-set locations as Capri and Saint Moritz — resort cities that, like Portofino, have attracted European aristocracy and the worldwide jet-set because the Nineteen Fifties.
Requested about this location, Miceli mentioned she had needed to stage a present in a house “for a while” — though the property, now privately owned, is just not your common abode. “I do know this was an abbey, however for me, I see it as the home of the Pucci girl. The gardens, the view, what extra would you like? And I really like the small stones of the black and white ground.” Certainly, whereas paying homage to the marble print, she mentioned she doesn’t design her collections with a location in thoughts.
Reflecting on the altering habits of shoppers, Miceli mentioned “we’re very fortunate as a result of issues are going very properly — knock on wooden — and I feel ladies come to Pucci as a result of once they put on the model they wish to really feel particular, they don’t wish to be a part of a uniform crowd, and that is more and more so in contrast with the previous. And in addition as a result of Pucci is synonymous with pleasure and femininity.”
America continues to be a really robust marketplace for Pucci, which is able to open a retailer in Houston this month. The Portofino boutique was simply redesigned with the assistance of architect Pierre Passebon.
Retaining costs in verify and consistent with the model can also be key for Miceli, focusing on totally different ladies — which was mirrored each within the casting that additionally included the likes of Kristen McMenamy, Karen Elson and Naomi Campbell, who closed the present — and within the pool of younger influencers dancing of their seats to the the soundtrack by Nada.
“I like how Pucci has a really clear identification,” mentioned Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, who was named deputy chief government officer of Christian Dior Couture final month. (Pucci is managed by LVMH Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy). “The problem is to all the time convey novelty to the model respecting its identification, sustaining its lightness, accessibility, pleasure, and complicated femininity that I discover lovely. And Camille transmits a laid again perspective and an vitality that’s contagious.”
The manager, talking forward of the present, additionally talked concerning the see now, purchase now format for Pucci, “becoming for the model, which has its personal visibility outdoors the style weeks’ schedule. And the way excellent to have the ability to present when the times get sunnier, in a lovely location and you’ll select to put on these [summery] garments instantly.”
Marisa Berenson additionally enthused concerning the present, “lovely and good. Camille is so gifted and artistic, she modernized the model however saved the Pucci DNA.” She was additionally joyful about returning to Portofino. “It brings again so many great reminiscences for me; I’ve been right here many occasions prior to now once I was younger,” she mused. Carrying a shocking necklace in mom -of-pearl and crystals, she mentioned it was a part of her personal namesake jewellery line. “I dwell in Marrakech now so I make them there. I regenerate there, the place I’ve somewhat nook of paradise however then I really like being out on the earth,” she mentioned.
Berenson subsequent week shall be in Milan as Michela Bruni Reichlin shall be promoting her jewellery in her showroom on By way of Montenapoleone. She can also be in the course of filming between Paris and the south of France a film she described as a “psychological investigation.”
