MILAN — The present social and monetary challenges and the adjustments at manufacturers from Gucci to Jil Sander didn’t dampen retailers’ temper about Milan Style Week, which they stated nonetheless provided loads of developments and novelty.
“Milan was energizing,” stated Marissa Galante Frank, magnificence and equipment style director at Bloomingdale’s. “Designers celebrated individuality in their very own means whether or not it was maximalist and adorned with embellishment or extra understated and layered with wealthy texture. Artisanal craftsmanship at all times takes middle stage in Milan and this season it performed a key function, exhibiting up in surprising methods, serving to to underscore the significance of private model.”
The week “captured a second of transition,” stated Rickie De Sole, vice chairman, style director at Nordstrom, “with designers navigating inventive exits and debuts whereas staying grounded of their core identities. There was a transparent shift towards dressing up, however with a contemporary, fashionable vitality that felt related and thrilling. Probably the most placing statements got here from those that embraced daring dangers — Marni, Prada and Diesel stood out by exhibiting that fearless creativity continues to outline Milan’s affect on style.”
Fendi fall 2025
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Fendi’s centennial assortment by Silvia Venturini Fendi was hailed as a winner and a particular emotional second, and Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ progressive and out-of-the-box considering was a success. The inventive tie-ups at Tod’s, Diesel, Etro and Marni was inspiring and interesting, and retailers praised the manufacturers that stayed true to their legacy.
Tendencies have been loud and clear this season, with shearling and daring fake fur, typically in dramatic proportions, on virtually each runway, along with snake prints, eel pores and skin, crocodile and pony hair. Fringes and feathers have been added to skirts and outerwear. Texture performs outlined the season, and layered and chunky knits took middle stage. Sharp tailoring and cinched waists emphasised sturdy assertion coats and fits, however a looser silhouette was nonetheless current. Sequins, and appliqué gems, studs and grommets highlighted Italian craftsmanship.
Here’s what retailers stated concerning the week:
Roopal Patel, senior vice chairman, style director at Saks Fifth Avenue
Favourite collections: Fendi’s one centesimal anniversary celebration introduced the most effective of the home’s magnificence, craftsmanship and glamour, rooted in household, custom and craftsmanship; it was elegant and glamorous. Silvia Venturini Fendi touched upon all of the Fendi codes as solely she will be able to do. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored femininity and wonder at Prada, providing a classy and genuine tackle how ladies put themselves collectively in right now’s fashionable world. The paper bag waist-skirts, topcoats over pajama-inspired skirt units, tailor-made menswear separates, comfortable plush faux-fur coats and stoles, knits with charms sewed into the neckline and artisanal pumps have been much more lovely in individual.
Lucie and Luke Meier’s closing assortment for Jil Sander was an emotional one and in addition a few of their greatest work, filled with sturdy tailoring, fringe, lace and feathers. Francesco Risso’s “The Pink Solar” assortment for Marni was a inventive burst of artwork and style. The play on proportion, daring shade blocks, texture and the Twenties Deco glam drop-waist robes created a robust mixture of inspiring and expressive style. Different prime collections included Brunello Cucinelli and Tod’s.
Greatest presentation idea: Fendi’s one centesimal anniversary presentation was a household affair with Silvia’s grandchildren opening the doorways to a super-chic present, adopted by the touching second of Silvia’s emotional embrace along with her mom on the runway. It was a excessive vitality and feel-good celebration.
Dolce & Gabbana’s “Cool Ladies” takeover of Viale Piave instantly off of the runway was excessive vitality, with DJ Victoria De Angelis spinning. The downtown/uptown vibe of the fashions going from cargos to slide crystal attire introduced the Dolce & Gabbana glamour to the streets with a full-on dance get together.
Trendspotting: Woman-like polish with a nod to the ’60s and ’70s, assertion outerwear in a bevy of fabrications and textures, corpcore with tailor-made separates, the return of the skirt swimsuit, fringe, feathers, textured knitwear, furry textured and shearling outerwear and equipment, the fake fur stole, cinched waists and belts, sling backs, mules, pumps and assertion boots.
Should-have merchandise: Something from Fendi’s one centesimal anniversary assortment.
At Prada, the pajama skirt set ensemble, the handled shearling raincoat with coated PVC for a wet day, the short-sleeve knit with inset charms, the signature paperbag waist-skirts and the artisanal pump.
Basic touch upon the season: Milan introduced the glamour, sophistication and magnificence of getting dressed up after an extended interval of quiet luxurious. It was an emotional week as Fendi celebrated its one centesimal anniversary, and Lucie and Luke Meier introduced their departure from Jil Sander after their gorgeous fall 2025 present. With that, there was a packed lineup of sturdy style for the client to embrace for the autumn season.
Marissa Galante Frank, magnificence and equipment style director at Bloomingdale’s
Favourite collections: Fendi’s one centesimal anniversary present was a style celebration like no different. Iconic Fendi types have been reimagined, like their “spy” bag in satin, paying homage to the previous whereas foreshadowing their thrilling future forward. Prada impressed us to consider what femininity means right now by way of surprising twists on the basic button down or LBD. Additionally they launched unimaginable new purses that can enchantment to a variety of shoppers and positively change into bestsellers. Tod’s was a ravishing instance of how texture and shade can breathe thrilling, attention-grabbing new life into minimalism. Max Mara opened their present with a ravishing shade of bordeaux layered from head to toe.
Greatest presentation idea: The theme of artwork was pervasive all through Milan and performed a powerful function in lots of the presentation ideas. Diesel partnered with greater than 7,000 graffiti artists to spray-paint almost two miles of cloth for his or her set. The invite was an actual spray-paint can, and a few attendees tagged the set themselves after Glenn Martens took his closing bow. Tod’s celebrated the artwork of workmanship. As we walked into PAC, the modern artwork pavilion the place the present was held, we noticed Carla Bruni-Sarkozy standing extremely tall carrying a recycled leather-based patchwork artwork set up created by artist Nelly Agassi and holding a big exaggerated stitching needle. Etro collaborated with artist Numero Cromatico, who created a curtain made up of greater than 120,000 tiles and stretched throughout their runway. At Marni, Francesco Risso partnered with visible artists Soldier Boyfriend and Olaolu Slawn and their work was current all through the venue and within the assortment itself.
Trendspotting: One of many largest developments is masking your neck — whether or not that’s through a funnel neck coat, scarf coat or silk scarf. Snake print and croc added texture to virtually each runway. Fringe was discovered in all places, from skirts and outerwear to leather-based gloves. Shearling and fake fur, particularly in an exaggerated trapper hat. Pony hair in wealthy colours and leopard print. Slim denim. Using boots. Bag charms and chains.
Should-have merchandise: Prada’s idler driving boot hybrid and jeweled knit collar, Ferragamo’s hug clutch in enjoyable new embellishment, Fendi dolls.
Carla Bruni at Tod’s
Aitor Rosa Sune/WWD
Jodi Kahn, vice chairman of luxurious style, Neiman Marcus
Favourite collections: Fendi pulled out all of the stops for his or her one centesimal anniversary with a set worthy of celebration. Silvia kicked off the week with a bang. We loved the embroidered and textural parts, belted knitwear paired with beaded skirts and “wow” equipment, together with their iconic Baguette bag in numerous iterations. Prada challenged standard concepts of femininity. Embracing undone magnificence, nice outerwear and proportions. Their pajama particulars, oversize knit attire, the little black Prada costume and an distinctive shoe providing all stood out. There was tons to like in Etro’s signature eclectic combine with texture, fluidity and dimension that embodies the season. Luke’s and Lucie’s closing assortment for Jil Sander was a grasp class in modern, fashionable energy dressing. The outerwear at Tod’s was one other main standout, together with an olive cape coat, crimson leather-based trench and uncooked edge scarf coat, simply to call a number of.
Greatest presentation idea: Displays this season took us to completely different hidden Milano jewels, just like the modern home scene at Blazé Milano to the placing distinction of recent sculpture in an ornate basic salon at La Double J — every serving as a considerate backdrop for its model’s distinct imaginative and prescient.
Trendspotting: Texture play defines the season, with feathers, fringe, leather-based, and layered knits taking middle stage. Fake fur, fur and shearling appeared in all places. Whereas colourful accents made a press release at Marni, reworked to couture heights at Fendi and rainproof at Prada. A sophisticated, female sensibility emerged by way of skirt fits and sharp tailoring, with belts — typically layered — cinching waists at Max Mara, Tod’s and Brioni. In the meantime, tailoring took an inside-out flip with seen seams and stitching at Moschino, MM6, Prada and even seen in footwear.
Should-have merchandise: Prerequisites embrace Fendi’s embellished Baguette and chevron leather-based boots. In addition to the brand new Prada open-toe idler and their quick shearling coat.
Basic touch upon the season: After extra serene outings in New York and London, Milan actually has dialed issues up a notch. Dolce & Gabbana’s “cool lady” present featured a stay DJ, whereas Dsquared2’s thirtieth anniversary present delivered a shock efficiency by Doechii, Brunello Cucinelli’s quintessential familia presentation and loads of A-list celeb sightings made for an thrilling week. Milan had a lot to have fun.
Linda Fargo, senior vice chairman ladies’s style and retailer presentation at Bergdorf Goodman
Favourite collections: Applause and appreciation for Fendi’s tour de pressure one centesimal anniversary assortment, which recalled their wealthy heritage however in the end moved ahead with the progressive craft and wonder they excel at. Prada stands out, not just for probably the most ahead and thought-provoking proposals on dressing, but additionally for collectible prerequisites just like the toeless idler boot, and outer seamed pumps and sweater necklaces. Loro Piana was a grasp class expertise within the final of Italian refinement and materiality. It’s spectacular to see 12 months after 12 months the event and progress at this storied model. Beautiful. Brunello Cucinelli was one of the luxurious and progressive collections inside this 12 months’s fascination with texture. Etro’s richly coloured neo-bohemian assortment completely spoke to the exceptional capacity right here in Italy for the homes’ capacity to evolve their signature craft and DNA.
Trendspotting: Many of the compelling developments we’re falling for tied again to texture, sturdy shade or novelty. Shearling and fake furs, particularly when utilized in dramatic proportions or utilized as excessive detailing, took prime billing. Different deluxe supplies, which shall be nice for our particular purchasers — extraordinary leathers, lush cashmeres, the brand new eel skins, custom-made tweeds, shiny patents, satin and deep velvets. Standout purses embraced the identical lineup of textures. We liked the enjoyment that every one the sequins, paillettes, fringe and appliquéd gems delivered to the season. We’d like some sparkle as of late clearly. We’re monitoring the powerful touches for powerful instances with neo-punk parts, studs and grommets. Outerwear was the highest trending class, and the brand new bomber right here morphed into the extra couture-like bubble again blouson form. Slim skirt dressing is a welcome pattern away from prior pant-driven seasons. Knitwear, a candy spot for Italy, appeared nice with added novelty, just like the built-in jewellery at Prada. Trending colours went in two instructions — both playful mixes not often seen for fall [like] bubblegum, lemon, sky blue and brown, or wealthy autumnal tones [such as] walnut, earth brown, wine, olive and turmeric. Footwear, like ready-to-wear, have been slimmer and nearer to the physique. We’re noting the brand new wedge slides particularly in patent, in addition to novelty pumps and funky idler varietals.
Should-have merchandise: A dramatic shearling element, the double wraparound belt particularly worn over outerwear, the mélange cardi-jacket from Missoni, and the clipped toe idler knee-high boot at Prada.
Basic touch upon the season: “Quiet luxurious,” transfer over. Novelty, contact me surfaces, exceptional wealthy and playful colours livened up our purchasing prospects for fall. No metropolis can ship on high-touch like Milan, the place luxurious materiality meets legacy craft, coupled with provocative design….Milan is weathering all their transitions regionally and globally, in model. Can’t watch for September to see the place all of the adjustments will take us.
Rickie De Sole, vice chairman, style director at Nordstrom
Favourite collections: Prada stood out this season with its refined but unconventional strategy, the place there have been thought-about suits and intelligent particulars that wanted a better look to totally respect. Marni made an affect with its vibrant use of shade, its playful but refined strategy to dressing up, its superbly eclectic spirit and a solid that introduced the gathering to life with actual depth and character. Fendi’s one centesimal anniversary present introduced a complicated assortment that felt deeply private, reflecting Silvia Venturini Fendi’s considerate imaginative and prescient of the home’s evolution.
Greatest presentation idea: Milan provided up some unforgettable present codecs: Versace’s ’90s throwback with its raised lengthy runway, Dolce & Gabbana’s present that prolonged onto the streets, sharing the runway expertise with the gang of onlookers, and Marni’s bistro desk setup that pulled visitors into the present’s electrical vitality.
Trendspotting: A “dressed however barely undone” aesthetic emerged with free silhouettes, and texture clashing took middle stage — suppose Ferragamo’s lace-and-fur mixtures, Marni’s satin-and-feather pairings, or Gucci’s daring interaction of textures. Embellishment for daytime added a way of on a regular basis opulence, exemplified by Fendi’s refined but luxurious appears, whereas delivering a maximalist edge. Purple carpet dressing returned in full pressure, highlighted by Dolce & Gabbana’s dramatic finale and Versace’s all-out glam closing appears.
Should-have merchandise: The high-vamp pump is making a robust comeback — it’s the perfect mixture of timeless and modern. Huge fake fur is one other must-have, with Prada’s oversize assertion items providing each heat and daring model. Animal print equipment are a should, and the leopard heels at Le Monde Beryl’s first Milan presentation stole the highlight. Including a contact of character to your purse, like Fendi’s leather-based pencil case and pocket book set, brings a way of on a regular basis pleasure and individuality.
Jil Sander fall 2025
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Simon Longland, director of shopping for, style at Harrods
Favourite collections: Fendi stood out because the spotlight of Milan Style Week, delivering a set that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with fashionable sophistication. Celebrating 100 years, the home’s capacity to steadiness custom with modern attract made it a transparent entrance runner of the season.
Greatest presentation idea: Dolce & Gabbana mastered the artwork of spectacle, with fashions seamlessly transitioning from the runway to an open-air setting, the place a stay DJ set introduced the vitality of the present to the encircling crowds. This immersive format blurred the traces between the unique style world and the town itself, making a dynamic and inclusive expertise.
Trendspotting: Shaggy textures, shearling and fake fur dominated the runways, showing in full jackets and coats in addition to linings, and trims on trousers and skirts. Black and ivory fashioned the inspiration of most collections, whereas shades of brown — from comfortable latte hues to deep espresso — emerged because the strongest shade story. The place designers did embrace shade, crimson was the simple standout, starting from shiny scarlet to deep bordeaux. As a pure complement to the shaggy pattern, leather-based and suede have been omnipresent and never simply restricted to outerwear items. Chunky, enveloping knitwear added to the season’s theme of tactile consolation and understated luxurious.
Should-have merchandise: A superbly crafted shearling coat is about to be the final word wardrobe funding for the season, embodying each heat and timeless magnificence.
Basic touch upon the season: The temper of Milan Style Week felt like a direct continuation of the menswear fall 2025 collections introduced in January. This was a season of transition, with a number of main homes in limbo — some missing a inventive director, whereas others introduced what could also be their final assortment beneath present management. Because of this, many collections leaned towards warning relatively than daring reinvention. But even inside this sense of restraint, the week reaffirmed Milan’s standing as a hub for distinctive craftsmanship and enduring model.
April Hennig, chief service provider at Moda Operandi
Favourite collections: Prada’s assortment challenged the beliefs of magnificence by way of subverted manipulation and the transforming of fabrication and silhouettes. The Meiers’ closing lineup at Jil Sander — maybe their greatest assortment but — was an expertly executed mash-up of clever, punk and glam parts. Ferragamo was romantically cool and filled with many shocking but refined touches that elevated the gathering. Versace reinterpreted ‘90s home codes with a robust vitality.
Greatest presentation idea: Prada’s multilevel scaffolding was industrial and impactful; Dolce & Gabbana’s livestream video backdrop of cool ladies actually introduced model to the streets; Carla Bruni-Sarkozy embodying the craftsmanship at Tod’s, and Blazé Milano’s intimate but stylish Milanese condo presentation setting.
Trendspotting: Dressed-up daywear continues to be the overall strategy to the season, and the Italian homes proudly embraced and modernized basic iconography (Versace’s barocco-lined sculptural minis, Missoni’s reinvented spacedye). The ubiquity of fur-like shearling continued in Milan and appeared on virtually each runway, from Prada to Gucci to Fendi to Etro. Monochrome feathers added glamorous curiosity at Jil Sander and Ferragamo. Designers elevated utility outerwear — from bombers at Missoni and Dolce, to draped capes and ponchos at Tod’s and Max Mara — whereas denim was printed, embellished and reworked at Versace and Etro. Punk styling of stuffed gloves and sneakers, and doubled belts added rebellious edge at Jil Sander, Versace and Max Mara.
Should-have objects: Prada’s loafer-boot hybrid and charming sweater collar necklaces, Jil Sander’s mixed-media lace and organza inset skirts, shearling boleros from Ferragamo, Jimmy Choo’s calf hair boots (a collaboration with Connor Ives), Versace’s vary of items that includes punk-western stud flap pockets.
Basic touch upon the season: Given that almost all of the Italian homes are in a state of inventive transition, manufacturers have been targeted on wearability and reinforcing model codes.
Ferragamo fall 2025
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear shopping for at Selfridges
Favourite collections: The Prada assortment was a favourite for certain. Every look fascinating. The outerwear specifically was a spotlight.
Greatest presentation idea: The Dsquared2 anniversary present was an enormous manufacturing present — musical performances, particular appearances and Naomi Campbell closing the present. A becoming present to have fun the model.
Trendspotting: Eveningwear was current in most reveals — at Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli, to simply identify a number of of the manufacturers executing eveningwear excellently.
Should-have objects: Each take a look at the Max Mara present felt very commercially fascinating and certain to be on the want listing for lots of our prospects.
New expertise: The Milan style hub placed on by the Digital camera Nazionale Della Moda is at all times a should cease for me and the workforce to take a look at the superb abilities coming from all throughout Italy.
Basic touch upon the season: Milan has as soon as once more bridged the hyperlink of creativity and commerciality artfully and efficiently, cementing its standing as one of the vital style weeks on this planet.
Giuseppe D’Amato, shopping for and merchandising director at Rinascente
Favourite collections: Prada for the femininity and new glamour aesthetic, Dolce & Gabbana for the coolness and energy of every single look, and Fendi for the 100-year celebration and journey by way of the home codes.
Greatest presentation idea: Prada’s industrial idea and Dolce & Gabbana’s present on the road.
Trendspotting: Daywear turns into extra elevated by way of reinterpretations of key streetwear items in a stronger means. Extra denim (washed, printed, with huge shapes), full leather-based appears, vast variations of outerwear in many various materials and with tons of particular elaborations are the important thing developments for this new daywear. On the alternative aspect, there’s nonetheless the very female and sensual look, with attire, see-through materials, embroideries and functions — all performed with some parts of tailoring.
Should-have objects: Fendi’s Spy bag, Dolce & Gabbana’s crystal costume, leather-based or embellished outerwear, cozy knitwear.
Basic touch upon the season: Maximalism took over at a lot of the runway reveals and shows. After a interval of quieter and cleaner appears, designers are going again to the DNA and model codes in a really sturdy means. Nobody is following developments anymore, however the actual pattern is [in the] id and private interpretation of glamour.
Marta Gramaccioni, shopping for director at LuisaViaRoma
Favourite collections: Jil Sander’s present was notably emotional, marking the farewell of the 2 designers in a darkish, virtually haunting ambiance. MM6 additionally stood out — simply as for the lads’s assortment. The model is on an ideal trajectory: fashionable, refined, well-priced and at all times staying true to the Margiela id whereas including a contemporary twist that makes the gathering extremely fascinating. It was my absolute favourite present.
Greatest presentation idea: Fendi’s 100-year celebration deserves a particular point out, honoring a century of workmanship and innovation. Prada additionally delivered a deeply intimate message, exploring and redefining the essence of female magnificence in right now’s world. One other notable second was Bottega Veneta’s occasion — intimate and conceptual, with out presenting a set. It was a reminder that the model sometimes holds its runway present on Saturday night, including an intriguing component to the week.
Trendspotting: This season, key developments embrace tousled, easy hair; basic pajamas reinterpreted with new shapes and volumes; fur in all its variations, and sharper, extra structured tailoring harking back to the ’60s. We additionally noticed a touch of shade right here and there, breaking apart the dominance of neutrals.
Should-have objects: For subsequent winter, fur — whether or not actual or eco — is a must have in all its kinds. I might positively put money into a minimalist eco-fur coat, structured like a basic overcoat.
Basic touch upon the season: This was a season of “second acts” — new designers settling into their roles and proving their imaginative and prescient. MM6 was the strongest, Francesco Murano impressed, Sportmax felt proper, and Blumarine lastly aligned with its heritage. On the larger aspect, Ferragamo delivered a stable assortment, and Prada was deeply shifting.
Joseph Tang, style director at Holt Renfrew
Favourite collections: Prada constantly challenges conventional conventions of femininity. The best way Mrs. Prada and Raf Simons manipulate fabrications and play with form and silhouette resulted in a set ripe for private innovation. Fendi’s centennial anniversary was a celebration of the model’s wealthy legacy. With an all-star solid and reinterpretations of iconic Fendi codes, the gathering served as a tribute that shall be remembered. Brunello Cucinelli continues to evolve conventional menswear tailoring into its ladies’s collections. The expanded eveningwear providing, crafted from artisanal knits and complicated embroideries, was a standout, and we stay up for seeing its additional improvement.
Greatest presentation idea: Tod’s assortment, showcased at Milan’s PAC, featured an artwork set up of Carla Bruni-Sarkozy wrapped in a recycled leather-based blanket, one of the placing assertion ideas of the week.
Trendspotting: An equestrian theme continues to shine by way of the collections of Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli, with a concentrate on heritage plaid fabrications and Highland shearling, all styled with supple leather-based satchels and complex driving boots. Textural layering was key this season, with a powerful emphasis on knitwear as outerwear, exemplified by Alberto Caliri’s debut at Missoni. Shaggy outerwear, achieved in fake fur or shearling, was one other dominant pattern.
Tailor-made outerwear stays a runway staple, with a heightened concentrate on form and silhouette at Max Mara and Ferragamo. Lastly, reimagined codes of femininity and eclecticism have been greatest demonstrated at Prada, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana, the place surprising pairings and silhouettes have been styled in an effortlessly refined means.
Should-have objects: The return of the Fendi Spy bag, in satin; Prada pajama shirt and skirt paired with the patchwork shearling jacket; Missoni’s knit cardigan; Tod’s knee-high boots; Max Mara shawl-collar cashmere knits, and Brunello Cucinelli Duo bag.
Shopping for course of: We’ve got spent as a lot time in showrooms as on the reveals, persevering with to strengthen {our relationships} with our Italian companions. As we navigate this market, we’re inspired by what we’ve seen, and our buys will replicate the items we imagine our prospects will covet subsequent season.
Basic touch upon the season: Milan was every week stuffed with custom and tribute, as manufacturers celebrated milestone collections whereas honoring their deep-rooted legacies in Italian style. With Gucci’s design-led assortment and the latest announcement of Luke and Lucie Meier’s departure from Jil Sander, each manufacturers now awaiting new inventive administrators, we’re desirous to see what the longer term holds. Total, the season emphasised craftsmanship, materiality, and individuality, leaving us impressed to curate the most effective of the collections for our prospects.
Tiziana Fausti, proprietor, 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti
Favourite collections: Prada is at all times exterior of the gang, which results in expressing probably the most attention-grabbing topics. Fendi was probably the most refined. Marni is at all times various. A nice day by day from Bally.
Greatest presentation idea: Fendi for its centennial was one of the anticipated occasions of the week. The engagement of the town and the general public exterior the Dolce & Gabbana present was very thrilling.
Trendspotting: Shearling, hair, furs, eco-fur, menswear materials for jackets and outerwear that outline the look.
Should-have objects: Coats, blazers and bombers with contrasting particulars. Baggage, stoles and equipment in eco-fur, additionally in a coloured model.
Shopping for course of: This delicate second requires completely shopping for in individual to higher strategy model and materials.
Basic touch upon the season: Regardless of the dearth of some manufacturers on the runways, Milan Style Week provided attention-grabbing concepts in a context that can proceed to Paris, the place we are going to see the provides of younger designers together with Hodakova and Duran Lantink that we’re exhibiting at 10 Corso Como as a part of The Waves till March 30.
Kate Benson, chief service provider at Harvey Nichols
Favourite assortment: Prada delivered an distinctive assortment this season, with a grown-up interpretation of recent magnificence and a really completely different structural strategy to what was seen elsewhere. Simone Bellotti’s designs for Bally have been additionally a standout second, reinforcing his exact aesthetic, showcased completely on the sixteenth flooring of the modernist Torre Velasca.
Greatest presentation idea: Impressed by the late Pina Bausch, the Ferragamo present, with its rose petal strewn runway, was a beautiful sequel to final season’s ballet. Marni’s transformation of their cavernous showroom right into a speakeasy-style bar was a revelation. The shut proximity of the fashions working their means by way of the viewers created an brisk intimacy across the assortment.
Trendspotting: Autumnal tones of burgundy, olive, mushroom and mocha fashioned the overarching palette, highlighted with daring shades of butter yellow, wealthy purples and scarlet. Bows, fringing and tassels added extravagant texture, as did fake fur, which was evident on quite a few runways from Gucci to Bally. Tonal dressing, mixed with layered texture, outlined lots of the Milanese collections.
Should-have objects: Standout skirts falling both simply above or beneath the knee. Beaded and metallic items or these in surprising contrasting colours so as to add an magnificence and aptitude to in any other case pared-back appears. Daring, assertion outerwear, whether or not it’s a dramatic fake fur trench from Gucci or a buttery leather-based crimson coat from Tod’s, was very a lot the anchor of many collections this season. Heels are again, with probably the most impactful being patent pumps with elongated factors in a large selection of shades
New expertise: Lorenzo Serafini’s debut assortment for Alberta Ferretti paid homage to the unique ultra-feminine imaginative and prescient of the model’s eponymous founder. While not ostensibly a brand new expertise, having labored because the inventive director of Philosophy, it was thrilling to see him take the reins, injecting a contemporary imaginative and prescient of romanticism.
Basic touch upon the season: Greater than is obvious most seasons, the oscillating actions of the style world have been obvious in Milan. Joyous centennial celebrations for Fendi, an emotional farewell for the Meiers at Jil Sander and different rumored inventive director strikes amounted to a season of poignancy, but additionally prospects.
